I know I’m a new guy here but I’ve been lurking around on and off for some years now. I believe it would be extremely beneficial to the forum to start a Compatible LCD Panel Thread, like the one at lumenlabs: http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=4&hl=acer+fcc+issue (this one only deals with smaller <18" panels)

I invite you all to post compatible panels 18"+ noting; Model Numbers, Specs, Screen Size, FCC issues, Antiglare Removal and links to strip diaries would be great also.

Please feel free to enter past successes and failures so that others can benefit from your experience. Hopefully we can make this into a sticky soon.

If everyone would post what they know about monitors that strip well, have good specs and DO NOT have the FFC issues I believe it would help this forum tremendously.

It would be great to only post about known monitors in this thread so we can stay on topic. Thanks even.

edit: I mentioned >18” as lumenlabs forum has already significant list of compatible <18” models but i suppose we could include those here too. Thanks for posting though ClerkWithKnife

edit edit: information ported to nuiwiki: http://wiki.nuigroup.com/Large_LCD_Monitors

Does anyone know if the film wrinkles, or anything worse, when I pour on silicon mixed with Xylene?

Ive had a look round the forum for the answer to this and found that somebody asked this question on an older topic but it wasnt answerd.
Thanks

I have an Optoma HD65 projector.  I’ve got the table set up with the acrylic and diffuser, along wit the plywood box.  It’s a 36” x 24” surface.  It’s 25” off of the ground.  I’m now sure how best to place the projector and mirror(s) to produce a projection that covers the most surface area with the least amount of keystone distortion.  I have plenty of mirrors, so that’s not a problem.  I’m using 8 x visible light (650nm) tiny lasers along the perimeter (yes, it’s very bright, no problem getting blobs).  I’m also thinking about lining the perimeter with reflective chrome to further keep it bright and make sure there are no dead spots.  Anyway, all of that is secondary.

Right now my concern is getting hard data and opinions on the position, altitude, and angles of the projector & mirrors.  I’m thinking two mirrors will be used.  The projector has slight lens shift adjustment, but it’s not enough to stave off the keystoning.  It does have digital V-Keystone, but we all know that’s not really the best option.

So, any ideas? :D I’ll post pictures once I get it working to my liking

also; i managed to achieve these results with minimal modification to the LCD screen.  The only modifications i made are:
1.) removal of last reflective layer (this is necessary obviously)
2.) adding IR-blocking film to the sides of the interior LCD acrylic.  This blocks any stray IR light from the CCFL.

I left the fresnel lense and the diffuser in the LCD and was still able to get crisp and workable blobs.  I dont think it is necessary to remove these filters, although some LCD’s may have two fresnels and two diffusers which may attenuate the IR signal.

In the end, I don’t think it is necessary or wise to try create your own back-light. Lining the acrylic with IR blocking film will considerable diminish unwanted IR light.

If so, is there anything to worry about when taking apart the monitor and mounting?

Thanks

Polymex 50 micron double matte drafting film ($2 USD sq. m)
Rosco Grey ($12 USD sq. m)
mind.unity@gmail.com’s film ($90 USD sq. m)
IFOHA Digiline White (169 EURO sq. m)
IFOHA Digiline Contrast (230 EURO sq. m)
3M Vikuiti ($566 USD sq. m)

You may notice how dark the Vikuiti looks in comparison to the other films--this is not an error.  The black level and color contrast are much better than the cheaper films, but without a sufficiently bright projector the image is dull (my projector is 1200 lumens).  If you had a 3000 lumen projector it would look stunning.  The Vikuiti is also the only film that has a restricted viewing angle.  I would estimate it to be roughly 90 degrees (compared to 160-170 for average LCD monitor), which could severely limit its suitability for tables.  You can see this in the images where the Vikuiti is slightly curled away from the window at its top edge.

Here are my personal opinions of the films:

*Drafting film:  Nice and bright but looks washed out and has the lowest contrast ratio.  Best price to performance ratio by far;

*Rosco Grey:  Kind of the worst of both worlds.  It’s too thick to have a bright picture, the contrast ratio isn’t all that great, and the image tends to look blurry.  Inexpensive but my least favorite;

*mind.unity’s film:  Brighter than the Rosco but still doesn’t quite get nice pure whites like the more expensive films or the drafting film.  This is probably the sweet spot for budget projects that want to keep the costs below a few hundred dollars.

*IFOHA Digiline White:  Matches the brightness of the drafting film but less washed out and with deeper blacks.  This film has a very harsh projector hotspot if you are standing directly in front of it, however.

*IFOHA Digiline Contrast:  Great balance between brightness and contrast, and no projector hotspots.  This is my favorite of the bunch but a little pricey for hobby tables.  $145 for a 45” 16:9 sheet (125 Euros, 114 cm).

*3M Vikuiti:  Paired with a bright projector, the Vikuiti can match the contrast ratio and color reproduction of an expensive LCD, but with the narrow viewing angle and exorbitant price, I can’t really think of a reason to recommend it to anyone.

In summary, I would recommend no budget projects consider drafting film, medium budget projects consider mind.unity’s film, and high budget projects consider the Digiline Contrast.  Note to LLP and DI users--mind.unity’s film, Rosco Grey, and Vikuiti all transmit slightly less IR than the drafting film, but still works if your blobs are nice and bright.

Polymex drafting film: http://tinyurl.com/ccjhks item no. F050DDD
can sell you his film via paypal.
Digiline Contrast : http://tinyurl.com/ankxz5

I did my best to get the photographs in focus and the exposure accurate, and the images below are a good representation of how the films look in person.

[EDIT] Either I screwed up my initial calculation of the price of Vikuiti or it has dropped by about 60% since I first wrote this.  I’ve updated the price to $566/sq meter.  Also, I changed the price of the IFOHA materials to euros since the dollar cost fluctuates (damn recession!). [/EDIT]

Parker

Hot mirror - Before - During - After

i’m a little bit despaired. I’m searching for my DI setup a suitable projector that fits inside my box. You can find the pictures of my box attached. Some explanation:
There are 4 LED illuminators in the box facing upwards to the glass tabletop. In the TopView you can find A and B. These to fields are two 4:3 projections (100cm x 75 cm). So i finally want to use 2 projectors.

I looked a lot around. I wanted to avoid using a mirror, because the box is moved a lot and it’s a pain to adjust the mirrors all the time. So i was searching an extreme short throw projector.
I thought i can use a whiteboard projector but the biggest problem with that is the offset. If i use some kind of those i finally have a 35cm frame around my picture. I really don’t want this.

So is anybody using a projector in a box similar to the dimensions of my box? Are there any perfect mirror solutions? Any advices?

I’m happy about any kind of help.

marco