http://www.physorg.com/news136528410.html

OLEDs = very cool displays with alot less power consumption than LCDs.

How can I move the circuits out of the way if there is no way to connect them, what would i need?

Thanks!

I’m new here, but I hope to contribute to the forum by learning and later teaching about Multi-touch technology.

Anyway, I’d like to start by making a LCD FTIR setup, as it’s a cheap start, and if successful, we’ll go from there. I had a few questions I would like to ask; firstly as I scanned the forums, I found a few confusions concerning the backlighting. Some say it emits IR light, others say they don’t. Please en-lighten me (haha). Secondly, I’ve seen some discusions removing a certain filter layer between the LCD Matrix and the “honey” cone layer. Would that have something to do with IR filtering or is it unnecessary?

I also have a question about compliant surfaces, which I will post in the correct section.

Thanks for your help.

So then I started to look around for lamps; particularly the halogen ones of the same wattage that are normally used for work lights. Turned out that a 12-20v doesnt really exist - but 120v ones were all over the place. So I searched on ebay and bought two oldish projectors that no longer have a lamp. One of them for whatever reason came with a projector lamp of the correct type, but the projector insisted it had no lamp no matter what I tried. There was only one microswitch.. I really think it was just borken, so I took that apart and found lots of awesome little optics pieces from lenses to diffusion grids to mirror filters that only let red light through and reflect blue and green. The actual lcd assembly is pretty cool too. The other projector insisted on having a lamp before turning on, so I gave it the one that came in the first projector. In spite of a 10v and 20 watt difference between what the lamp wanted and projector provided, it worked for about 8 seconds before realizing something is wrong with the lamp and going off (with the lamp led blinking).. so I bought a couple double ended halogen bulbs of the same voltage/wattage and they went on with the projector and it stayed on.

Because of the odd, tubular shape, I decided to build a little apperatus that would house and cool the lamp while passing it through a couple diffusion grids and outputting it right into the projector. In a couple days made that. It’s made out of mirror acrylic and looks like the attached 30 sec sketch in paint. All the surfaces are mirrored on the inside except for the holes for the lamp and where the light is coming out there. The gray things on the inside are diffusion grids from the other projector to make the light even. I tried to make the curve at the top (made of aluminum foil) parabolic with the bulb at the directrix so all the rays would bounce parallel to the axis of symmetry… though this was only roughly accomplished and isnt the problem.

As a side note - these lamps get REALLY REALLY REALLY REALLY HOT (in the realm of several hundreds of degrees). which is why I planned it so I can fit a glass tube around the bulb that will give it very nice airflow once I make an air duct for a fan that fits up to that edge. For now, I’m only letting it stay on for about 10 sec.

The problem is that I put it in, turn it on, and the blue square is wayyy too dim. The light itself, however, is one of the brightest things I’ve seen… definitely on par with or better than the other lamp. I believe this one has over 3400 lumens, and I’m directing the large majority of the light right into the projector.

I’m stumped. If you’ve ever seen a halogen work lamp, you know just how freaking bright they are.

Any ideas?

I’m new to the MT scene, and was wondering if there’s some sort of guide or instruction manual on how to create an LCD multitouch screen (or even just something I could use for reference to make my own).

Thanks,
-rewind123