Point Grey FFMV camera…
Point Grey has lens mounts, with and without filter filters. The one with IR filter (visible pass) is very easy to remove, but you don’t need to because the $300 development kit for the FFMV includes both (also, get the 4mm and 8mm as well the default 6mm lens for a range “panel in frame” distances). These microlenses are not CS mount (remove cs mount from camera and install microlens mount). Microlenses also do not have threads for mounting filters (see last comment on filter mounting).
Regarding the bright spot…
Put to both projector and camera off-axis to get rid of the glare (of course NOT on opposite sides of the axis!). You get a little trapezoid, but most projectors are designed to be off-axis (ceiling or table mount). But the IR radiation from the projector may still be slightly picked up by the projection via the diffuser. So some means of getting rid of the projected IR is nice. You CAN use a filter or hot mirror that is SMALLER than the lens, it will then act as an aperture (like changing the F stop in a traditional camera lens) with slight attenuation to the projected image (which is only a problem for dim projectors, rarely for most, especially for ftir tables).
Also consider a COLD MIRROR !!!
One single cold mirror can both filter IR from projector to panel AND filter visible from panel to camera. This is done by mounting Projector and camera are 90 degrees to each other with projector reflecting off of mirror to panel and camera seeing through it straight to the panel. There is a small cross-over region in the spectrum where some IR is reflected and some visible is transmitted.
FILTERS, irLEDs and SPECTRUMS…
I tried a 890PB10 on a FFMV with a panel using Optek OP290 LEDs (spectral output similar to SFH485) and had to replace the filter with a wider pass 880BP70. Along with a large and cheap hot mirror it is working well with good tolerance to ambient lighting.
Remember that LEDs actually emit a fairly wide spectrum of radiation. The SFH485 is 80nm wide between 50% points, and don’t assume it is symetrical - check out the “Relative Spectral Emission” plot in its datasheet - use this as your reference when comparing plots of filters. General rule of thumb is to pass at least between the 50% points (has anyone really had success with very narrow 10nm pass filters?)
The specific filter I am using with the FFMV now is from Thorlabs…
http://www.thorlabs.com/thorProduct.cfm?partNumber=FB880-70
The specific hot mirror I am using is a Rosco #38000
http://www.rosco.com/us/filters/protect.asp#IR-UV
(I highly recommend an “extended IR” hot mirror over a regular hot mirror)
CHEAP IR-PASS
Ebay has some great deals, otherwise on a budget you can get a 4"x5" resincast and cut it into many 1” x1” pieces and stack them up for a decent IR-pass on the cheap.
http://www.edmundoptics.com/onlinecatalog/displayproduct.cfm?productID=1918
(don’t get the 1” round one, it is a different material and sucks)
FILTERS MOUNTING DOES NOT HAVE FIT EXACTLY
As long as the filter is at least as large as the camera lens, it will work - silicone glue! You may have to make an adapter ring out of black plastic (actually, I made an aluminum bracket for mine). Just glue it up with silicone and it is done, but removable if you need to. The microlens on the FFMV do not have threads for mounting filters - not a problem. Don’t waste your money cutting down filters.