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Sony PS3 EYE IR Filter Removal (Difficulty: MEDIUM) ** Updated **
Posted: 20 November 2008 05:36 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 31 ]
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bushman95 - 20 November 2008 04:25 PM

how the hell do you remove the back panel? Do you pull it straight back twist it push it down. I have no idea how to take this apart. Can someone post a more detailed tutorial on removing the back cover. I have been at it for like 2 hours and don’t even know where to start!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I also had difficulties with that, you just have to force as there are clips on both side of the “sphere”. Once you opened it, you can break those clips so it will be easier if you want to open it again.

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Posted: 21 November 2008 08:18 AM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 32 ]
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is there a way to simply take off the ir coating with out taking out the lens? I got mine open but now ever 20 or so seconds it turns to complet static. I think I might have broke my camera. Anyone else have the same problem?

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Posted: 21 November 2008 01:44 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 33 ]
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bushman95, there’s a glass filter that has to be taken out, not just a IR coating.  So yes, the lens has to come out.

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Posted: 21 November 2008 02:15 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 34 ]
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Here’s the link to my blog showing my dissection of my PS3 eye cam.

Bushman I didnt have that problem, maybe you poked something that didnt like to be poked.

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Posted: 21 November 2008 02:30 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 35 ]
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crap

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Posted: 21 November 2008 03:01 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 36 ]
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If this helps anyone, here also is a pic off my blog showing the cut out filter:

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Posted: 21 November 2008 07:07 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 37 ]
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exacto knife works fine no need to get that complicated. Why is this thought of as such a good camera if you can’t focus it? The iSight in my opinion 60 fps and no ir filter, it cosnt the same as an eye but with out the work and has supported driver. I did notice it isn’t as sensitive to ir as the eye.

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Posted: 21 November 2008 07:36 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 38 ]
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Well the PS3 eye can get up to about 128 fps at 320x240, or 75fps in 640x480.  I agree that the lack of a driver sucks big time, as I really want one that works with tbeta (hence why Im not using the PS3 eye right now, and have to use my cheaper Microsoft vx-3000).

You can focus the PS3 eye if you twist the zoom knob thing a little.  try propping something under it to keep it a tad bit up.

Oh, and that was an pen exacto knife that I used smile , just cut a bit more than most people probably

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Posted: 28 November 2008 03:56 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 39 ]
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PeauProductions - 21 November 2008 07:36 PM

Well the PS3 eye can get up to about 128 fps at 320x240, or 75fps in 640x480.  I agree that the lack of a driver sucks big time, as I really want one that works with tbeta (hence why Im not using the PS3 eye right now, and have to use my cheaper Microsoft vx-3000).

You can focus the PS3 eye if you twist the zoom knob thing a little.  try propping something under it to keep it a tad bit up.

Oh, and that was an pen exacto knife that I used smile , just cut a bit more than most people probably

PeauProductions,
I am waiting to the tbeta’s source code to be released and then I’ll be able to workout the fix for this.
Hopefully this will be soon, since I also want to be able to use this great cam with tbeta.
I am currently working on camera stitching version of PS3Eye driver. This will allow you to for example combine four PS3Eye cameras and get 640x480 @ 128fps or, 1280x960 @ 60fps.

~Alex

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Posted: 28 November 2008 04:04 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 40 ]
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SteveB - 22 September 2008 12:50 AM

Now armed with Alex’s pictures and confirmation that the rear element is indeed the IR filter, I’ve had at it.
Mine had a metal collar sealing the filter in. Cutting didn’t really work but a gentle prying back of the collar all the way around released the filter no problem. In the lens tube below the filter is a spacer ring, and then below that the first of three lens elements. These appear to have been simply held in place by the presence of the IR filter and spacer rings creating a lens sandwich. In popping out the IR filter both lens element and spacer have moved back up the lens tube slightly taking up a bit of the space that the IR filter took. So I pushed them back down the tube and tacked the spacer ring with a spot of glue to restore the sandwich. So this should have put all the lens elements back where they belong.
Upon reassembly of the camera I have discovered two things.
1)There is a huge focus issue now. This could be caused by either this loose element not being in the right position, or the IR filter was needed to complete the light path. I’m not sure how the floating element could be out of place - there is just no other place it could live with the IR filter in position, and if the lens was meant to be up the tube more (assuming I pushed it down too far and the IR filter is not as thick as I think it is) then the focus would have changed every time the camera got knocked about as the lens would have had room to slide around with nothing to lock it in place. I’ve checked the other elements and they are in the original spots as well.

The second thing that I discovered upon firing it up post surgery is that the rear most element was indeed an IR filter. The camera picks up more IR than it did with its filter in place (although out of the box the camera had no trouble seeing to at least 900 nm before, albeit with lower sensitivity than my real IR 850-tuned camera.)
But now, even with an 800 nm and above passing filter in front of the lens to block all visible light, I’ll bet I can spot neutrinos!. It’s so bright as to be unusable. Who needs an IR source - everything seems to be emitting it. Any light from a projector hitting my touch screen (even with the projector having an IR blocker over the lens) blooms the camera (which, remember, still has the that 800 and above passing filter taped in front of the lens.)
If I hold the original IR blocking filter in front of the lens instead, it brings the levels back to what I would expect for a normal camera.
Even with the projector off, and barely enough light in the room to see; through the PS3 cam, it’s like daylight.

Going to try an 850 or 900 nm and above passing filter instead of my 800.
Also going to try to reinstate the IR filter to check focus.  Now that it’s out the IR filter does look flat so it shouldn’t have anything to do with the focal distance.

SteveB,

The focus issue is due to the fact that somehow by removing the IR blocking filter the camera lens focuses the image a bit shorter than it does with the filter.
As luwe said (look at the responses section), you can fix this by carefully sanding down (with fine sandpaper) the base of the camera lens. One way to make sure that you don’t sand it off too much is to keep the camera plugged in and test the lens from time to time during the sanding process.

Another option is to cut the existing lens and carefully remove it from the lens mount (since it is glued in) and then use your existing lenses with the camera.

~Alex

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Posted: 28 November 2008 04:14 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 41 ]
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bushman95 - 21 November 2008 07:07 PM

exacto knife works fine no need to get that complicated. Why is this thought of as such a good camera if you can’t focus it? The iSight in my opinion 60 fps and no ir filter, it cosnt the same as an eye but with out the work and has supported driver. I did notice it isn’t as sensitive to ir as the eye.

bushman95,

iSight is a great camera, but you only get 30fps at 640x480. On top of that the camera has large latency (image delay) of 78ms.

~Alex

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Posted: 29 November 2008 03:43 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 42 ]
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So what are the lower (eg 400nm) and upper (say 900nm) limits to the OV7720/OV7221 chip?  OV does list this basic information in the datasheet and no-one at OmniVision seems to have any clue, which cant be the truth.  Another company that does not know how to market their own product.

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Posted: 28 December 2008 01:26 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 43 ]
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AlexP:

Do we have a good solution on focus issue?

If not , I suggest that you should notice the focus issue in the first page with big font and bright color.....

just now I follow your guide, remove the IR filter, and then I found it-----focus issue, and I can’t recover it, cause the IR filter is almost broken.

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Posted: 28 December 2008 02:08 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 44 ]
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Summer, if you turn the lens so that it stops just before it clicks in, it will be in focus. You can also decide to buy a new lens and m12 mount for the camera.

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Posted: 28 December 2008 09:19 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 45 ]
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Hi cerupcat, I saw this solution before, but didn’t understand:

“the temporary solution is to rotate the lens between the ‘clicks’ and get the sharpest image that way.”
“if you turn the lens so that it stops just before it clicks in, it will be in focus.”

It only have 2 position to turn, standard mode and wide mode, are you mean I need turn it just at the center of them ? If yes, how should I make it fixed ?

And....If I use another lens instead of that IR filter, how should I select the material ? normal glass with exactly same thickness and dimension is ok ??

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