Thanks

I’ve got a question concerning the combination EndLighten & 7D006.
The top of my table will approximately look like this (click to enlarge):

Can I glue the EndLighten (yellow) onto the ledge (pink), which sits inside the box or will this have some effects on the EndLighten?
I also would like to glue the 7D006 (turquoise) into the frame (top layer - black).

As shown in my sketch, the 7D006 will only lie directly on the EndLighten, so I can lift the lid (the lid will consists of a wooden frame and the glued in 7D006). I don’t want to glue them together, but will this still work?

Update:

Can someone tell me, what’s this?

This is the picture of my PS3Eye, when the lid of my new lense is on.
You can also see the pattern very slightly in this picture:

The black streaks/dots are from the BP filter.  When you use in your box, you shouldnt need to worry as that slight variance in tone will be hardly noticeable since the IR blobs are going to be much much brighter and turn those pixels white reagardless of the black things.

As for your layering…
Hmm, so you cant just screw it all down and make sure the pieces all fit in snug enough that they dont move around?  I think glue on the diffuser will be fine (assuming you are using a glue for plexi/acrylic) but I dont know about the Enlighten.  Should be fine Id think, as the Enlighten is acting as an IR emitter and not as an FTIR acrylic which touching would then cause frustration problems.

Thanks for your answer Peau. Now I feel reassured concering the dots.

Maybe I won’t have to glue the EndLighten to the ledge. As you can see on this picture, there’s a edge of the frame left above the LEDs. I could cut it every 10-15 cm and bend it over the EndLighten. This would fix it upwards and sidewards it’s fixed by the LEDs/frame. Actually this should work, the glue was intended as a additionally fixing.

I still cant believe you used metal frames and didnt insulate the wires
When I did this on my first table I accidentally shorted out an LED or two and had to hunt around with the volt meter to find the dead one...not fun.

Hmm yeah thats right, your Endlighten is only held in by the metal frame.  Maybe just put in some spacers to make it sorta like a U channel, with the LEDs inside and then the Endlighten shouldnt go anywhere.

The frame hasn’t been finished yet, so maybe your concerns are unfounded - I don’t know
Should I rather have insulate every single wire from each LED or what do you mean?
How could the wires touch the frame without bending them down?

Could you please show me a good example, how it should be done?
That would be very useful, thanks.

I used a neat trick to isolate the LED’s in my original setup -

I used a piece of ‘U-channel’ aluminum rails in which I drilled holes for the LEDs along the length.  I laid a layer of electrical tape along the length of the rail (covering the holes) and then used a pencil to punch through the electrical tape.  This had a two-fold bonus - the electrical tape held the LEDs in place snugly, while insulating the LED leads from the aluminum rail. 

Just have to be careful if you solder the LEDs while they’re in the rail so you don’t melt the tape - after everything was soldered and wired up another layer of electrical tape held everything in place, while insulating the LED leads from the environment.

Never had an LED short on me even through rigorous testing, and it was damn cheap!

thanks for your answer cdog. i repair a projector and now i can make my project too

cdog:
I did exactly what cicada just mentioned for my LED-LP table.  I used L aluminum rails covered entirely in electrical tape.  Not the most professional thing, but sure works well.  If you were trying to be more professional you would have bought the environmentallight ribbon
Here are some pics:
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_3beRomJOnjM/SRiGuVlFUBI/AAAAAAAAAQ4/UNUdFN5Gtoo/s1600-h/IMG_1375.JPG
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_3beRomJOnjM/SRiJikjYQkI/AAAAAAAAARw/o2sBCXnTBtI/s1600-h/IMG_1380.JPG

these bars would have been great as well for your setup:
http://www.led-tech.de/de/Leuchtdioden/Entwickler-Platinen/MultiLine-Streifenplatine-33cm-fuer-30-LEDs-LT-1167_1_91.html

Too late, but thanks for the advice.
Maybe for the cdog 2.0 table in 2015 :D

I’m glad I found this thread.
Was planning on using almost the same hardware setup as you are doing cdog.

I’m really curious to see how the combination Endlighten + 7D006 works out.
Please let me know if or when you have tested this.

Are you going yo use a protective layer on top of the 7D006?
Or is the material scratch resistent enough?

Hey there,

I’m glad to hear you’re doing a similar setup!
I hope, I’m able to report some test results in about two weeks or so…

The 7D006 will be my top layer - nothing else above it.
As I heard/read it should be scratch resistent enough for normal use, but If you put bottles or keys on it, this may cause scratches...I’m not sure, so you better handle it with care

It’s indeed the material used in MS Surface, but I’m not sure if MS is using it as the top layer.

Hey,

I got some updates on the building process of my box online.
Just have a look into my blog.

Now I have to wait until the end of next week to pick up my box.
In the interim I’m going to prepare some insides like the PC and stuff.

Some new pictures of the nearly finished box are online in my blog.

Looking good!
Can you clear something up for me, how are you attaching the acrylics?
I don’t really understand your drawing…
And are you leaving some space between the Endlighten en the 7D006 or not?