I think you should find out why your LEDs aren’t drawing the calculated 4.2 A current and why they are failing. I guess there are lots of people at your university who have a deeper understanding of electric circuits.
I checked them today with a “Stromzange” and they’re drawing the 4.2 A.
Okay, meanwhile only round about 3.9 A, but 4x7 LEDs aren’t working at the moment, so the value fits.
I mean, in your picture you see no blobs at all, and if even one series of leds work, then there should be faint light from any side bouncing of your fingertips…
I don’t understand your last sentence, sorry. As I said, the LEDs are working well (except the 4 groups I mentioned above).
I’m not 100% sure, that the problem proceeds from the LEDs.
I got some updates and facts. Maybe someone spots a cause for my problem:
- Today I tested my setup with a piece of half-transparent baking paper above the EndLighten, but got no results.
- The LEDs draw their 4.2 A as mentioned above.
- The edges of the EndLighten have gotten polished a while ago by a professional plastics-speccialist.
- The LEDs are sitting relatively tight on the EndLighten with a angle of 90° to the edges of the EndLighten, therefore horizontally and parallel to the EndLighten itself.
- The table has been tested in a light and a dark environment.
- The EndLighten was tested on both sides.
- Cam is a Sony PS3Eye with removed IR-filter, but the lens has been replaced anyway. I’m using a wide angle lens now and a “NIR Optical Filter, 880DF20, 11.5mm painted edge” which fits to the 880 nm of my Osram SFH-485P. As far as I understand, the filter should block ALL light with less than 860 nm and more than 900 nm, right? That’s what the 20 stands for (+/- 20 nm).
- When the 7D006 is laying on the EndLighten and I’m poting my TV-remote on both layers, the cam recognizes the IR-light of the remote and creates a blob. Strangely this also works with a torch and a lighter. Shouldn’t these lights get blocked by the filter?
- The internal PC is also powered by the same PSU which powers the LEDs and the fans.
- The mirror is NOT a first surface mirror, but I don’t think, that this fact leads to my problem or am I wrong?
- I’m using NO hot mirror in front of the projector. Could this be a cause for my problem?
I hope these additional facts can help to find a solution, because I don’t want to give up my time- and money-consuming DIY-LED-solution to replace it with LED-strips which would cost another 250 Euro including shipping :(